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This road is also known as N-40 and is important for trade.London Road: The Gateway to Pakistan for European Tourists Now Known as the "Dunky Route" |
In the rocky mountains of Pakistan’s Balochistan province, there lies a road called “London Road,” stretching from Nushki to the Iranian border. At first glance, it’s hard to imagine that this path once served as a significant gateway into Pakistan for European tourists. For decades, European travelers on cars, buses, and motorcycles would enter Pakistan through this very route.
I’ve journeyed down this road myself numerous times, unaware of the history beneath my wheels. Today, however, it’s more known as the “Dunky Route,” as it has recently become a newsworthy pathway for people attempting to leave Pakistan illegally in search of a better life in Europe. But once upon a time, this same road was bustling with tourists from across Europe. To understand London Road’s rich story, we must take a look back into history. A Path from Quetta to LondonIf you trace the route, London Road spans from Quetta, the capital of Balochistan, to Taftan at the Iran border. From there, it passes through Iran, Turkey, Greece, and other European nations, eventually leading to the United Kingdom hence the name “London Road.” Historians explain that the British recognized the strategic importance of this route as early as the 19th century. The Russian Empire was expanding its influence in the south, which concerned the British. Historian Yar Jan Badini notes that Shah Mahmood Hanifi discusses this in his book Mountstuart Elphinstone in South Asia. In his work, Hanifi mentions how little people knew about Balochistan during that era, as the region had largely remained outside state administration for centuries. The British were worried about Russia and Napoleon’s ambitions to control India. In 1809, they sent agents to the lands between India and Persia to gather intelligence on the area’s terrain, lifestyle, and resources. These agents were tasked with studying the local people, their ways of life, and even the livestock they raised. According to Hanifi, two prominent British officers were sent to Balochistan: Lieutenant Henry Pottinger and Charles Christie. Disguised as a horse trader, Pottinger traveled through Balochistan, Iran, and ultimately Turkey, marking the first documented journey from India through Balochistan and into the Ottoman Empire. London Road: From Military to Tourist RouteFormer Balochistan Chief Secretary Ahmad Bakhsh Lehri describes London Road’s history even further back, noting its use in the Mughal era. In his book On the Mid Track, Lehri highlights that this route had military importance, even during the Mughal period, as it was constantly monitored by soldiers due to its proximity to what is now Iran. The Mughals maintained troops along this route to guard against external threats. While both the Mughals and the British leveraged the road for military purposes, it became a vital link between Europe and Pakistan in the decades following the Partition of India. What was once a pathway for horses was transformed into a route for cars, buses, and motorcycles, allowing travelers to journey all the way from London to Quetta. During my research, I came across several photographs from the 1960s and 1970s. In these images, English tourists pose by milestones along London Road near Quetta, while others are seen gathered around double-decker buses, enjoying roadside picnics. Yar Jan Badini confirms that in those days, people from Europe would often travel by car or bus to Quetta, where they would then continue their journey toward India. The Roadside Inns and TeahousesToday, if you travel along London Road, you’ll notice many roadside inns and teahouses that still serve as resting spots for travelers. Badini explains that these inns were originally built to cater to the pilgrims and travelers passing through. One such teahouse is run by Taj Muhammad, who opened it in the 1970s. His son, Mumtaz Ahmad, recalls that it initially served as an inn, offering a place for travelers to spend the night. But after his father’s passing in 1999, the inn was transformed into a teahouse. These days, fewer people pass through, as most prefer to travel by plane to reach their destinations. Occasionally, a few motorcyclists stop in, looking for nothing more than a cup of tea,” Mumtaz shares. During my visit, I met Ashfaq, a local teacher with many memories tied to this road. He explained, "This road, also known as N-40, holds commercial importance as it’s used to transport fruits, vegetables, and other goods from Quetta to Iran. Ashfaq recalls his childhood memories of seeing double-decker buses filled with English tourists traveling toward Quetta. “My parents didn’t speak English, but they would invite these travelers into our home for a short visit, using hand gestures to communicate.”  A Shift in Purpose: From Tourism to MigrationWhile London Road’s scenic journey once attracted foreign tourists, it has now gained notoriety as a migration route. In recent years, this road has increasingly been used by people who dream of reaching Europe through unofficial and often dangerous channels. Unfortunately, these travelers face risks and harsh conditions in hopes of finding better opportunities in the West. Yet, the memories of London Road’s former days remain vibrant for locals who remember it as a gateway for international tourists, rather than a corridor for migration. The Cultural Exchange and Warmth of Local HospitalityOne of the unique aspects of London Road’s history is the cultural exchange that it facilitated. Local communities along the route recall encounters with foreigners fondly. From sharing meals to exchanging stories, these interactions fostered a sense of curiosity and friendship. Ashfaq and others remember the travelers who were drawn to Baluchistan's rugged beauty and distinct cultural heritage. Travelers from across Europe came through, often eager to experience the landscape, connect with locals, and learn about life in these remote regions of Pakistan," he said. Today, the inns, teahouses, and rest stops along London Road stand as silent witnesses to an era that saw both cultural exchange and camaraderie. These places once offered a glimpse of the world to the local people, as much as they offered an insight into Balochistan to the visitors. Looking ForwardLondon Road remains a historical route that reflects changing times from a defense path during the British and Mughal eras to a popular travel route in the 20th century. It is a road of memories and stories for those who remember its days of bustling tourism, and for a new generation, it represents the path to their dreams, albeit through challenging journeys. The journey of London Road from being a pathway for tourists to a route for migration is a tale of shifting realities. But its rich history and the warmth of the local communities along the way remain timeless. For now, while the flow of European tourists may have dwindled, London Road’s legacy lives on. Its story reminds us of a time when this rugged route served as a connection between continents and cultures, echoing a history of travel, exploration, and hospitality. Keywords: |
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